Its Maori name is Maungakiekie, the mountain of the kiekie
vine. I didn’t notice any vines growing there. In fact, what struck me at first
was the nearly complete lack of vegetation other than the closely cropped grass
even on its steepest slopes. The reason for this was just as obvious. Sheep
dotted the grass throughout the park, widely dispersed in some areas, clumped
into small herds in others.
I’m trying to recall ever seeing a similar scene in an urban
park. But I can’t.
There are trees in the park, but the native one (pōhutukawa, in Maori) that gave the
hill its English name is long gone, victim of an act of vandalism by a white
settler in 1852. Most of the non-native pines planted to replace it didn’t
survive. Maori activists attacked the last remaining pine with chainsaws in
2000 as a protest against perceived injustices by the government. So, One Tree
Hill bears no tree.
With only two days to see as much of Auckland as possible,
we drove most of the way up to the summit. With more time and better weather I
would have enjoyed the hike. We walked the last quarter mile in a light
drizzle, sheep ambling out of our way as we approached. The cloud cover hung
little higher than the summit itself when we reached it, which, along with the
rain, limited the 360° panoramic views of the city and its two harbors.
One Tree Hill Domain, as the park is officially known, is one of a
pair of conjoined parks (Cornwall Park is the other) that are situated near the
center of the Auckland metropolitan region and the isthmus on which it’s
located. Despite the inclement weather we were among quite a throng on the
summit. In fact, there were many people throughout the large twin park
landscape. I imagine it’s very crowded on beautiful days.
One Tree Hill is the remnant of an ancient volcano, one of 48 in the
Auckland Volcanic Field. As we walked back down we noted the popular fad of using
loose lava rock as movable graffiti down among the soft contours of the
long-dormant crater. Without a few tiny sheep at the bottom it would be
difficult to appreciate the size of the rocks or the scale of the mountain.
Though far from a wilderness, One Tree Hill is a highly satisfying urban park
experience.
This post is the second in a series from Australia and New Zealand. To go to the first, click on Muriwai Beach.
To see more photos from Australia and New Zealand, go to my flickr album.
To see more photos from Australia and New Zealand, go to my flickr album.
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